Wyoming Road Trip 2024: Dubois

It took me a while to complete my Wyoming Road Trip series, because there’s just so much to say about our last stop — Dubois. We first discovered this authentic western gem when my in-laws moved there in 1978. After hundreds of visits, Dubois is our second home. We spend several weeks there every year, always renting the same house overlooking the Wind River. This view from the deck (below) never gets old.

You’ll find Dubois in western Wyoming, a likely stopping spot on your way to Grand Teton National Park or Yellowstone. With fewer than 1,000 residents, the main street has no stop lights and no fast-food restaurants. Because of its proximity to the Tetons and Yellowstone, you’ll find a few tourist shops, but Dubois intentionally avoids the tourist town vibe.

In fact, the local ice cream shop took pains to advertise “This ain’t no Jackson Hole” in a large neon sign! Dubois is a ranch town with real cowboys, not wannabes in fancy boots. Their Wranglers are likely patched and muddy, with the imprint of a Skoal can on the back pocket. The locals find city slickers amusing.

That being said, friendliness is a core Western value, and you’ll find it in abundance in Dubois. Come along, and I’ll show you some of my favorite sites and pastimes.

The most vibrant stretch of commerce is the half mile just past the L-shaped bend on State Highway 20/26. This is Ramshorn Street. Prospects for retail success in Dubois are low, so there’s a high rate of turnover in the selection of shops. Every season finds a handful of new hopefuls, but you can count on a few hardy businesses that have been there for years. Among these are Waterwheel Gifts, the Rustic Pine Tavern, and the Cowboy Cafe. Across the street, you’ll find Tukadeka Traders and Monte Baker Antler Carvings. In the 45 years we’ve been visiting Dubois, these are the staples.

Local Artisans

Kitschy souvenirs offered by most tourist shops are fine if you have small children in tow, but these days I prefer the search for something truly unique that reflects the local culture. Let me introduce you to my favorite Dubois artisans.

Tukadeka Traders and Monte Baker Antler Carvings

For an authentic keepsake, visit these adjoining shops. In addition to a large selection of Native American jewelry and handcrafted artifacts, Tukadeka Traders offers a stunning selection of glass trading beads. The friendly owners love to share their passion for Native American history and handiwork. Definitely a fun place to visit, and you may develop a sudden urge to take up beadwork.

Next door you’ll find Monte Baker’s incredible antler art. Even if you don’t have the disposable income or room in your suitcase to take one of these beauties home, don’t miss the joy of this art form.

Wyoming Wool Works

It would be easy to miss this gem, because the shop is located in the Masonic Lodge building (behind the Opportunity Shop at the bend) and is only open Thursday through Saturday. It doesn’t even have a proper sign. As the name suggests, it offers a wide range of yarn and hand-made wool products, the most popular of which is the saddle pad.

By far the most surprising find in Wyoming Wool Works is its owner. The first time I met Anita Thatcher, I was captivated by her sense of style. She dresses with the panache of an artist, which she is, of course. Her medium is wool. Trust me, she knows everything there is to know about wool and sheep.

Anita loves to share the story of how she ended up in Wyoming. A New York gal, she came to Wyoming for a vacation at a local dude ranch in the 1980s. During her visit, the cook failed to show up one day (either ill or hung over, I don’t recall), and Anita volunteered to step in. As it happens, she owned a catering business in New York, so she knew her way around the kitchen. One thing led to another, and before long, Anita had fallen in love with a cowboy and moved to Wyoming permanently. Her cooking skills remained in high demand, but when she wasn’t in the kitchen, she was learning the sheep business, including all the things you can do with wool. If you want to experience the local color of Dubois, don’t miss a visit with Anita at Wyoming Wool Works!

Gary Keimig’s Nature Gallery

People sometimes wonder why we come back to Dubois twice a year, to the same house, to see sites we’ve seen for 45 years. The answer: because it never gets old. Gary Keimig, a local landscape and wildlife artist, understands this sentiment perfectly. A native of Casper, he moved to Dubois in late 1978 and has been adventuring into the back country for his art inspiration ever since. Step into his gallery at 1304 Rhodes Street, and experience the beauty that keeps him enthralled with wild places.

Most days, you’ll find Gary in his studio working on his latest painting, but even at age 83, he still ventures into the back country at least twice a week. Mornings and evenings are the best time for both wildlife and landscape light. No matter how many times you’ve seen the same landscape, subtle changes in the light render the scene new every time.

Gary knows every bend of the backroads around Dubois. Always on the lookout for wildlife of any kind, he especially thrills to spot a bear. And he does. Often. As I flip through his album of bear photos, he smiles and says, “There’s a story behind every photo.” I’ll bet. More than capturing a photo, though, it’s clear Gary simply enjoys watching these magnificent creatures. He’s calls them “nature’s clowns” because of their silly antics. Few people have spent as much time in the company of grizzlies as Gary. You can join him on his wilderness rambles by following him on Facebook.

When You’re Hungry

I’m sure there are some good dining options in Dubois that we’ve never tried, because we default to these three favorites.

Cowboy Cafe

You can’t miss the Cowboy Cafe, smack dab in the center of Dubois commerce. When the weather is fine, choose an outdoor seat, and strike up a conversation with the folks at the next table. You meet some interesting folks!

The Cowboy, as it’s known, serves hearty ranch cooking in large portions, but the menu also includes a few bougie sandwiches for those with city tastes. We often stop by for a platter of biscuits and gravy in the morning, before we head out for the day’s adventures. No matter the time of day, save room for a piece of pie. With 20-30 choices, it’s painful to choose just one, but you can’t go wrong with Bourbon Chocolate Pecan or Strawberry Rhubarb. And by all means, pick up some merch on your way out.

Yes, the food is good, but you should visit the Cowboy Cafe for the experience. For local color, it can’t be beat, especially in the off season. I wrote about one memorable visit in this blog post.

The Lone Buffalo

For a more refined dining experience, check out The Lone Buffalo, across the street from The Cowboy. The mouth-watering dinner selections include several homemade pasta dishes and a nice wine selection. Of course, the steaks are fabulous, too!

Crooked Creek Guest Ranch

When we want to enjoy a leisurely meal in good company, we head to the Crooked Creek Guest Ranch at the top of Union Pass, about 15 miles west of town. The scenery alone is worth the drive, but the food at Crooked Creek is exceptional. Two of my favorites are the bison steak and the parmesan crusted halibut. Mmmmm. I call it fine dining in boots. Whatever you do, don’t show up fancy.

Local History

Whenever I visit a new place, I want to know something of its history. Somehow the experience is richer when you can place a community into its larger context. Dubois celebrates its history with two facilities, conveniently located next door to each other.

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center

Of all the local wildlife, the bighorn sheep is most revered in Dubois. That’s because it played a key role in the very earliest history of the community, long before the arrival of the white man. Although several Native American tribes spent time in the area, it was primarily home to the Shoshone tribe. The Shoshones were known as “sheep eaters.” Where other tribes relied primarily on bison, the Shoshones hunted the bighorn sheep, which were plentiful in the Wind River and Absaroka mountain ranges surrounding Dubois.

The Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center introduces visitors to these remarkable creatures and illustrates their importance through hands-on displays. There are two remaining herds in the area, but sadly, their numbers are dwindling every year due to a strain of pneumonia that we’ve been unable to eradicate. The Center staff track bighorn sheep sitings on a white board, so stop by for information on where you are most likely to see them. In the summer, they stay in the high country, but it cold months you can find them in their wintering grounds on Whiskey Mountain just east of town. They are a site to behold!

Dubois Museum

The Dubois Museum is small, but surprisingly good. In addition to the main building, the complex contains several historic buildings, including a sheepherder’s wagon, that give visitors a real taste of early life in Dubois.

But the best part of the museum is the friendly and knowledgeable staff. If you have questions, they have answers! In the summer, their Adventure Treks offer day-long outings to different sites of interest. Check the website well in advance of your visit, because these tours fill up fast. They also lead private tours for groups who want to see the petroglyphs, sheep traps, or other historic sites, and their rates are very reasonable. For anyone interested in local history, make the museum one of your first stops.

National Military Vehicle Museum

There’s a new museum a few miles east of town, and it is amazing beyond words! The National Military Vehicle Museum is one man’s personal passion, housing the largest private collection of U.S. military vehicles. Dan Stark is an avid student of America’s involvement in armed conflicts, and he has collected military vehicles and weapons for years. It boggles the mind to discover this Smithsonian-level museum in little Dubois, Wyoming.

The “wow factor” of more than 120 fully operational military tanks and vehicles under one roof is amplified many times over by the quality of the display and personal narratives of those who fought. I’m not particularly interested in military equipment, but I was moved to tears after reading about the sacrifices of our veterans in each conflict. What a debt of gratitude we owe to our veterans!

The museum offers tours every day for those who want all the details, and Dan Stark often hosts these tours. I’ve heard nothing but glowing testimonials from folks who have taken a tour.

The first exhibit in the museum is the weapons vault, displaying more that 250 firearms that date from the Revolutionary War to now. The crown jewel of the collection is the rifle that fired the first shot in the Revolutionary War at Bunker Hill. At the auction where he purchased it, Mr. Stark outbid the Smithsonian Museum. His winning bid was $500,000.

One of the particular delights of the museum is that the toys come out to play in the 4th of July parade! Remember the year President Trump was determined to have a grand military parade in Washington, D.C. after he had seen the Bastille Day parade in France? I think he managed to get a tank or two for his parade, but the parade he really wanted was happening in Dubois! We got a little tired of tanks after the first 15 or so!

Native American Petroglyphs

You don’t have to look far to find evidence of the earliest Dubois residents. About a dozen teepee rings still mark an early campsite on Table Rock Mountain, and various cairns and sheep traps are still standing. But the most impressive remnants of Native American life are the masterpieces chiseled into the sandstone boulders surrounding Ring Lake. You can find petroglyphs in many parts of Wyoming, but most are behind fences. It’s a special thrill to stand right next to one of these ancient art pieces and wonder at the mystery of who created it, when and why.

Some of the petroglyphs are on private land and can only be accessed with an approved guide, such as one offered by the Dubois Museum. But many more are on public land, accessible with some modest rock climbing, if you know where to look. They are not marked, on purpose, for their protection. Find yourself a local guide and explore these ancient mysteries.

Take a Drive

The landscape surrounding Dubois can be summed up in one word: diverse. It’s a geological jackpot, a mix of open prairie, granite mountain peaks, and miles of badlands ribboned in red and purple hues. For those not inclined to hike or go off-roading, a drive in any direction will be rich in natural beauty.

East of town, take the road to the fish hatchery and when the road immediately forks, stay left on Trail Lake Road. This road takes you to the base of Whiskey Mountain, the bighorn sheep wintering grounds, then winds around for several miles past Torrey, Ring and Trail Lakes. This is the area to see petroglyphs and bighorn sheep. It’s a great place to fish, paddle board, or just wander.

You’ll find the Glacier Lake trailhead at the end of this road, and it branches into several trail options. One of the quick and easy trail options (about 45 minutes round trip) takes you to a roaring waterfall.

If you just happen to have a kayak or paddle board strapped to the top of your rig, Ring Lake has a boat ramp that makes for easy entrance to the water.

On the drive back, stop to admire the stunning view of the badlands.

Then head north on Horse Creek Road. It takes about 45 minutes to get to Double Cabin and Wiggins Fork, or pick any side road and see where it takes you. There are no wrong turns. Wiggins Fork is a popular site for rock hunting and fly fishing.

Finally, head west. You could spend all day exploring the Union Pass area, or keep going until you see the road to Brooks Lake. This gorgeous lake is surrounded by granite cliffs known as The Pinnacles. Have a picnic, do some fishing, or hike a trail.

Explore the Wilderness

For those wanting a physical challenge and the chance to go head-to-head with a grizzly, hiking opportunities are endless. That part about the grizzly? Not a joke. It’s what they call “gallows humor.” 🙂

The grizzly population in the Dubois area is healthy and growing. They are fun to watch from a distance, but here are six tips to avoid becoming bear bait.

• Call the ranger station to inquire about bear sitings or incidents in the area you plan to hike. Rangers are knowledgeable and friendly.
• Hike in groups of three or more. Bears like their odds against one or two humans, but they are highly unlikely to take on three or more.
• Every person in your group MUST carry bear spray. Keep it easily accessible and know how to deploy it. Trust me, you will not have time to retrieve it from a backpack.
• Stay on well-traveled trails.
• Make noise. By announcing your presence, you give the bear a chance to back away. You may never know how close you came to a bear, and that’s a good thing.
• Be alert to tracks and scat. If either look fresh, change course.

If hiking is not your thing, explore the back country on ATVs. So fun! Thousands of acres of public land await, and the friendly folks at Dubois Honda will help you plan your day. During peak season, reserve your ATVs as far in advance as possible.

Whether hiking or off-roading, make sure you take plenty of water. The elevation in town is just under 7,000 feet, but your adventures could take you to 10,000 feet, and altitude sickness is no fun. Staying hydrated will help you acclimate.

Family Fun

When it comes to family fun, Dubois hits the jackpot. I love that my grandchildren have such happy memories of Dubois, just like their parents. Here’s a quick rundown of family friendly activities.

Cowboy Up!

The Dubois rodeo happens every Friday night during the summer. Local ranch hands compete in calf roping, bronc busting, bull riding, barrel racing and other tests of cowboy prowess. Some of the youngest contestants are so small, their little legs stick straight out from the saddle, and you just won’t believe how they handle a horse!

Our little ones love to join the kids events, and they sure look cute in their hats and boots!

The Dubois rodeo is authentic western fun at its best. The announcer is entertaining, the cowboy crew is smooth and efficient, and the events move along at a fast clip. Don’t miss it!

Wave Your Flag on July 4th

Wyoming loves July 4th, and even small towns gussy up for a parade. Dubois may not have a marching band, but it makes up for it with a whole battalion of World War II armored vehicles, interspersed with beautiful horses, of course.

Ride a Jackalope

If you don’t get your picture taken on the giant jackalope, did you really visit Dubois? No! It’s mandatory fun! The “jackalope store,” as we call it, also has an amazing assortment of T-shirts, sweatshirts, and quirky souvenirs. It’s a favorite stop, no matter how many times we’ve been before.

Ride Horses

After watching those cowboys in the rodeo and parade, you might have an irresistible urge to saddle up. We recommend Said Creek Outfitters for your horse adventures. If it’s been awhile (or never), start with a shorter trail ride. You’ll be sore!

Ride the Mechanical Bull

As you’re cruising through Dubois, you’ll see Grandma’s Bakery and Bowling and wonder at the odd combination. What other bakery do you know that has a bowling alley in back? And not only a bowling alley, but a fantastic arcade, complete with mechanical bull. It’s truly a one-stop shop for family fun!

Go Square Dancing

Every Tuesday night, the Rustic Pine Tavern pushes the tables back and invites young and old to promenade and do-si-do. It doesn’t matter if you’ve never square danced in your life and have two left feet. Go. Do it. You’ll have so much fun, I promise!

Swim in a Dead Geyser

Here’s something you can’t do back home — take a swim in a geyser! It’s no longer an active geyser, so you don’t have to worry about being blasted into the air. Instead, just enjoy the warm water and explore the cavern. As you make your way down the rope into the bowels of the earth, you just know you’re going to have a story to tell your friends!

I would love to be able to tell you how to find the geyser, but my directions are not that good. You’ll want to find a local who can take you or give you good directions. It’s not far outside of town, but the old logging road to get there is pretty rough. When you get there, notice the old wooden flume still running along the mountain side. This used to be a very active logging site.

Catch a Whopper at Pete’s Pond

Most of the great fishing around Dubois is on the river or streams, and it’s not always kid-friendly. Some local anglers created Pete’s Pond just east of town to give the young-uns a fun and safe place to learn. The pond is well stocked, and our grandkids always have a grand time!

Only in Dubois

For all the things we know to expect in Dubois, we also love the random, unexpected delights that cause us to shake our heads and say, “Only in Dubois!” We were enjoying a burger at the Cowboy Cafe one sunny day, and down the sidewalk came a young woman walking an enormous Brahma bull on a leash! We joined a group of amused onlookers and received a proper introduction to Frosty, the pet Brahma. He was quite friendly and incredibly soft. Yep, only in Dubois!

Wildlife

For me, the joy of being in the mountains is knowing at any moment I might see wildlife. I always have my camera handy, and whether I get a great shot or not, the experience of just watching God’s creatures in the wild thrills my little heart.

I followed this black fox at Brooks Lake from a safe distance. He had two dinner choices that evening — the plump rodent in his mouth or the trout some angler left on a log. He probably would have enjoyed both if I hadn’t been watching him, but he settled for the rodent and left the fish for another day.

Several grizzlies roam the area between Brooks Lake and Togwotee Pass, and you will often find them near the highway, digging roots with their giant claws. Highway signs warn you not to stop for bear watching, but there are several pull-out areas where it’s safe to do so, or you can take a side road and watch from there. Respect for wildlife is a core western value, and you never want to get close enough to disturb them. I had a long-range lens for these shots.

I will always be passionate about protecting wild spaces and wild creatures. What a joy to see them in their habitat!

Grand Teton National Park

Dubois is just an hour away from Grand Teton National Park, so plan to spend at least one day of your visit there. It’s my favorite place on earth, and I have a bazillion stunning photos, but I’ll just leave you with a few to whet your appetite.

Spend a few hours in Jackson, too. You simply MUST have a photo beneath the antler arches on the town square, and then browse the shops and galleries. Yes, it’s a tourist town, but it’s still charming!

Rest

For all the fun that Dubois offers, we cherish it most for a chance to rest. We spend quality time with the neighbor horses down the lane, linger over our morning coffee on the deck, and greet the deer in our yard every evening at dusk.

For our Sunday rest, we worship at St. Thomas Episcopal Church. Rev. John Roberts, a missionary to the Arapahoe and Shoshone tribes on the Wind River Reservation, first started ministering in Dubois in 1901. The log church was built in 1910, and it’s been a sacred center for the community ever since. The congregation is so warm and friendly, and we instantly felt at home. If you’re interested in Rev. Roberts’ amazing ministry with Chief Washakie and Sacajawea, I highly recommend Walk Softly For This is God’s Country.

Thanks for staying with me through this long post! I get a little carried away…. If I can ever help you plan your trip to Dubois, I’d be happy to do so! Until then, happy trails.

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